How to Set Up Mountain Bike Suspension — Sag, Rebound, Compression

Buying a bike with good suspension is half the job. The other half is setting it up for you. Factory settings rarely match your weight and riding style — a few minutes of adjustment changes how the bike handles entirely.

Sag — your starting point

Sag is the percentage of suspension travel that compresses under your weight (in full riding gear, with a pack if you use one). It's the most important parameter — everything else builds from it.

Riding styleFront sagRear sag
Cross-country (XC)15–20%20–25%
Trail / all-mountain20–25%25–30%
Enduro / DH25–30%30–35%

How do you measure sag?

  1. Set the suspension to its full open range (all dials in "open" position).
  2. Push the o-ring on the stanchion all the way down.
  3. Sit on the bike in your natural riding position — feet on the pedals, hands on the bars. Have someone hold the bike steady.
  4. Carefully step off without bouncing the bike.
  5. Measure how far the o-ring moved. Divide by total travel — that's your sag percentage.

You adjust sag with air pressure (air shocks) or spring rate (coil shocks).

Rebound

Rebound controls how quickly the suspension returns to its starting position after a hit. The dial is usually red, marked with a turtle (slower) and a rabbit (faster).

Quick test: ride off a curb. The bike should bounce once and settle. If it keeps bouncing, slow the rebound down. If the suspension feels sluggish coming back, speed it up.

Compression

Compression controls resistance as the suspension compresses. It splits into two categories:

Cheaper suspension has a single compression dial (or just a lockout). More expensive units separate LSC and HSC.

Lockout — when to use it

Lockout stiffens the suspension — useful on long, smooth climbs where bob eats energy. Unlock it for descents and technical terrain, always.

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