How to Choose Cycling Shoes — a Beginner's Guide
Cycling shoes are one of those pieces of kit that genuinely change ride comfort and performance. But the range is wide — SPD, SPD-SL, platforms, stiff soles, soft soles. Here's how to make sense of it.
Types of cycling shoes
Road shoes (SPD-SL, Look, Speedplay)
These have a stiff carbon or composite sole and a smooth underside with a three-bolt cleat pattern. They're light and give the best power transfer. Downside: walking in them is miserable — the cleat sticks out under the sole, and the smooth plastic slides on every surface.
MTB / SPD shoes
The two-bolt (SPD) system recesses the cleat into the sole, so you can walk normally. The sole tends to be slightly more flexible than road shoes, but the power-transfer difference is negligible for a recreational cyclist.
Platform (flat) shoes
No clipless system — they look like regular sneakers but have a flat, grippy sole. Great for beginners and city riding. No clipless pedals required.
How to size them
- Cycling shoes should fit snugly but not pinch. Your foot shouldn't slide inside the shoe.
- Leave about 5 mm of room at the toes — your foot swells on long rides.
- Width matters. Some brands (Lake, Bont, for example) offer wide lasts.
- Try shoes on in the afternoon when your feet are slightly swollen — closer to how they'll feel on the bike.
What to look for when buying
- Sole stiffness — stiffer means better power transfer. Carbon > nylon > rubber.
- Closure system — a BOA dial gives even pressure, velcro straps are simpler, laces are lightest.
- Ventilation — you'll appreciate perforations and mesh panels in summer.
- Cleat compatibility — check that the shoes match your pedal and cleat system.
SPD or SPD-SL?
For most recreational and training cyclists, SPD (two-bolt) is the better choice. You can walk in them, they're easier to clip into, and they're cheaper. SPD-SL makes sense on the road if you care about every watt and don't plan to get off the bike.
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